Cycling with a long pole is not recommended, nor is is convenient.
So I devised a new tool. It's a 10 ft length of rope -> 1/4" kevlar rope with a nylon weave covering it. This is fantastically-strong stuff and it DOES NOT STRETCH. Not at all. And it will NOT break. It has something like a 7,000 lb tensile strength!
I cut a 2" section of 3/4" PVC water pipe, looped and tied one end of the rope through the pipe. A larger/heavier piece is not advised, in case you yank the rope too hard and the object flies towards you.
It is very easy to toss the pipe over a sign and yank the signs down even when they are 12' up.
Sometimes I loop the loose end of the rop through the pipe and make a lasso, but that's a judgment call because a really tough sign might not come down. That did happen just one time to me. I came back with 'The Pole' and retrieved it though.
Usually, just hooking the pipe behind the sign and giving the free end of the rope a good tug is sufficient to pop the sign off.
And this rolls up into a small size which easily stores in the ditty bag on my bike. Another big plus is it's non-conductive.
A modified technique I have used is to attach the loose end to a short stick, which helps on windy days when tossing the PVC accurately is a problem. Swing it like you're jumping rope, or flicking a whip, while holding onto the PVC pipe. Easy as pie to hook the sign.
>Hi: > >Way to go! > >Could you post a photo of the tool? I'll add it to the Tools >page. > >DenverShark
I attached a photo of my 'Shark Line'
I also attached my painter pole with a 'Bear Claw' brand of small nail puller attached (using ordinary automotive hose clamps.
The prongs are somewhat sharp and, being solid steel, there's a decent mass on the far end of the pole so I can quite easily penetrate even the toughest coroplast without the need for a wild swatting motion that could be dangerous. The tip penetrates and grabs nicely so that a gentle tug pulls down the sign, thanks to the bulging shape.
#4. "RE: My new tool" In response to Reply # 3 Wed Jun-03-09 05:23 PM by pops
Let me get this right, the rope is thrown over the left or right side of the sign, which ever side is more off centerd on the pole. Then you would pull it to the left, right, or down, and the sign breaks free?
The pipe is just for weight, to get it up and over a 12 foot high sign?
I'm thinking out loud, maybe at the halfway point along the rope somehow attach another pipe permanently to the rope, to get more area in contact with the surface of the sign when you pull on the rope. This pipe could be 18" long, the width of most coroplast. Run my rope thru it a couple of times to keep it from sliding?
I like this more and more. Gotta go find my 1/2 inch rope I've been storing for years. There it is. Its 25 FT to the halfway point. Retire Sharkystick for Rodeorope!!
It looks like bungee but it doesn't flex, its wound so tight. I cut it to hold up my 20 ft eucalyptus tree a few years back, and it came apart like that.
I'll try the rope on some signs that can be hard to get down without a alot of digging and prying with Sharkstick.
I think I got it now, the pipe pulls the sign. I was wraping the end of the rope into a ball to throw over the sign and catch.
#7. "RE: My new tool" In response to Reply # 4 Thu Jun-04-09 06:05 AM by southsidejohnny
My objective was a compact tool I could carry in my bike pack. Modifying with more sections of pipe could be effective, but then I'd be back to 'how do I carry it with me?'
Where possible, I like to loop the loose end through the short pipe after I toss it over - to 'lasso' the sign before I pull on it. This has the benefit of preventing the sign from flying off into traffic. It also puts pressure on both top and bottom of the sign, pulling it away cleanly.
Normally though, I just stand behind the pole and toss the rope between the pole and the sign (there's a nice little 'V' to aim at) and the rope is less likely to slip off before I can put tension on it.
When multiple nails are used on the signs, it is critical to get a 'clean' pull otherwise you may find one left and the sign spins around on it. That gets a bit tricky trying to get the rope to stay up there.
I found my rope at a 'hamfest' (amateur radio fleamarket) - the rope is commonly used to attach wire antennas to poles and trees. Google for 'kevlar rope' and a number of sources come up. I bought a 100' spool for around $7 as I recall (been several years ago). I think it may be used by boaters, so the local marine supply centers may stock it. You probably won't find it at the Home Depot type of places.
You really will want it sheathed (dacron/nylon/etc). The friction will probably wear through bare kevlar quickly. I see a lot of unsheathed rope being offered.
I've been told its sold at army/navy surplus stores as 'parachute cord.' This place (http://radioworks.com/crope.html) sells it but the price seems out of line.
But in the end, any non-stretchy rope will do. And a stretchy rope that you prestretch until it 'sets' is going to be fine.
